A drawing of a figure in an elaborate costume, seen full length, facing the spectator, with the head inclined downwards and to the right. The left arm is covered with a cloak, with the hand on the hip. The right, with an elaborate beribboned sleeve, is stretched down to the side.

As a court artist in France, Leonardo designed costumes for the many entertainments staged for King Francis I. He was aiming at a great richness and layering of textiles, with ribbons, plumes, fringes, spotted furs, and quilted sleeves and breeches. The figure here appears rather androgynous, but his stance, with clearly visible legs planted well apart, rules out the possibility that he was intended to be a woman. He holds the edge of a long skirt up to his waist, to reveal the scalloped edges of his tunic and a sheer underskirt. See also RCIN 912576.

Text adapted from Leonardo da Vinci: A life in drawing, London, 2018