A drawing of a young man on horseback, in profile to the right. He wears a masquerade costume, with many feathers, ribbons, and other elaborations. He carries a lance in his right hand. Melzi's number 87.

As a court artist in France from late 1516 until his death in 1519, Leonardo designed costumes for the many entertainments staged for King Francis I. He was aiming at a great richness and layering of textiles, with ribbons, plumes, fringes, spotted furs, and quilted sleeves and breeches. Such striped, checked and scalloped clothing was associated with mercenary soldiers, fools, minstrels and prostitutes: the guests of Francis I were dressing up not just exotically, but in something risqué. See also RCIN 912573, 912575-912577.

Text adapted from Leonardo da Vinci: A life in drawing, London, 2018