This large chatelaine was purchased by Queen Victoria in January 1850. The popularity of cut-steel chatelaines as ornamental watch and seal chains for both men and women had reached its peak in the late eighteenth century, particularly with the mechanisation of much of the production. Matthew Boulton's Soho Works in Birmingham was especially renowned for the sophisticated designs it created. By the early nineteenth century, however, the use of chatelaines had fallen from favour. Nevertheless, almost as soon as Queen Victoria came to the throne Thornhill & Co. were advertising themselves as ‘suppliers of chatelaines to Her Majesty’, and by 1839, World of Fashion magazine reported a revival in their use.

This example is typical of the chatelaines produced in the 1840s, incorporating tools for sewing, writing implements, a small purse and an almanac, as well as several purely decorative charms. Although the materials were not expensive in themselves, particularly with the introduction of mechanised steel-cutting, these objects were relatively costly.

In 1849 Punch published two caricatures of ladies wearing chatelaines in this style - lampooning the size and number of implements attached to the belt-hook. Worn over a crinoline, the mass of objects would not have appeared so incongruous but their weight was considerable. It is debatable whether these items were intended more as curiosities than as practical objects, although in this case the ivory tablets have been used.

Thornhill displayed a cut steel chatelaine hook at the Great Exhibition which was praised in the Official Catalogue for its ‘elegant and ornamental character’; by 1862 the company was winning prizes for such work. The firm claimed that being entirely hand-made, the chatelaines from their London workshops were superior to those from Birmingham.

Chatelaine hook stamped with a crowned VR and: THORN HILL; propelling pencil stamped: S. MORDAN & Co; penknife blades each stamped: THORN HILL; almanac printed on first page: The BIJOU Almanac for 1849 LONDON D. BOGUE Fleet Street.

Text adapted from Victoria & Albert: Art & Love, London, 2010