One of three single-figure paintings signed by Marcos (also RCINs 407811 and 407299), an otherwise unknown Armenian painter active in Isfahan, the cosmopolitan capital of Persia in the 17th century.

The identity of the figures in the other two paintings are revealed by Armenian inscriptions on the reverse of the canvases but the corresponding area on this painting is concealed by the current stretcher and so it is yet unknown whether a similar label exists. Her dress nevertheless identifies her as Eastern Turkish in origin. She wears a tall silk brocade cap wrapped over the head with a thin muslin scarf that drops to the shoulders and is set with a gold enamelled aigrette at the centre of the crown. Her outer coat is of brocaded silk with a floral design in metallic thread and has short sleeves and a deep U-shaped neckline, the upper half of which is fastened with round buttons covered in gold thread. Below this she wears a long, wide-sleeved, diaphanous shirt embroidered with floral patterns in coloured thread, the edges of which are embellished with needle lace. Her diagonally striped trousers fit tightly at the ankles and her feet are bare under wooden patens with red leather straps. The ensemble is accessorised with an ornate belt and necklaces, each comprising gold plates set with turquoises and rubies. In one hand she holds the stem of a rose while the other holds a large white handkerchief.

In composition, the three paintings of this group  derive from European full-length portraits. The figures pose facing the viewer on chequerboard tiled floors; to one side is a pillar partially covered by a heavy curtain; on the other, a window balustrade opens onto a pastoral vista; and beside each of the figures is a fabric-covered table bearing assorted European luxury wares. This painting features two Dutch gin bottles filled with wine placed inside a cooling bowl, and next to these a cup, a miniature cucumber and a quince (fruits which typically accompanied wine in Safavid Persia).

A large inscription on the balcony to the left of the figure names the painter and is written in both Latin (‘Marcos Fecit’) and Armenian. Just over twenty other single-figure paintings on canvas from Safavid Persia are known, but none are signed or attributed to a named artist. Marcos is believed to be one of many Armenian painters working in Isfahan in the 17th century. Another documented artist, Minas, is known to have trained with a Dutch painter in Aleppo before he established himself in Isfahan around 1630 and subsequently taught a generation of painters in a variety of media (‘in oil and without oil’ and on ‘paper, canvas, board, copper and on the wall’).

This type of Safavid single-figure painting closely corresponds to the wall paintings found in the merchants’ houses of New Julfa, the Armenian district of Isfahan. These murals are thought to depict the different indigenous groups who lived in Isfahan in their various styles of dress (Persian, Turkish, Armenian, Georgian, Indian and European). All three of the paintings in the Royal Collection similarly show different indigenous ‘types’ and depict vessels which allude to wine-drinking suggesting that they were intended to decorate entertaining spaces. The figures of the male-female pair (RCINs 407811 and 407299) as well as the objects that surround them and the elements of their dress all appear in other Safavid paintings by different hands, indicating the use of cartoons and pattern books by their artists.

In all three of Marcos’s paintings he focused heavily on the structure and layering of fabrics, perhaps unsurprising given the central role of New Julfan merchants in the international textile trade. Infrared analysis suggests the patterns for his fabrics existed on separate cartoons to those used for their shape and structure. The artist also applied small metal flakes (now tarnished) to the paint surface to mimic metal thread.

It is unknown how or when the three paintings arrived in England but their English Chinoiserie style frames are 17th century. The two female paintings are likely to be the ‘Two Indian women, at length’ which appear in James II’s inventory of Windsor Castle in 1688 and the male was apparently separated from them at that point. All three canvases have the same thin primary layer of varnish but a further layer was applied to the paintings of the two women. These later hung at Kensington Palace and Hampton Court Palace (described in inventories as either ‘Indian’ or “Chinese’) before returning to Windsor Castle where they were first recorded with the painting of a Persian man (RCIN 407811) in 1872.