The wedding gown worn by Princess Elizabeth is of rich ivory duchesse satin contrasting with rich embroideries of seed pearls, imported from America, silver thread, crystal and transparent appliqué tulle embroidery. Attached at the shoulders was a magnificent 13-foot silk tulle full court train, embroidered in pearl, crystal and appliqué duchesse satin (RCIN 100020).

Norman Hartnell, submitted a selection of designs for Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress, one of which was approved in mid-August 1947, less than three months before the wedding. Hartnell visualised a bridal gown of fine pearl embroidery in a floral design, citing as his inspiration Botticelli’s painting of Primavera (c.1480), to be embroidered with trails and garlands of flowers.

When the wedding was announced in July 1947, rationing was still in place (it was not lifted until 1949). To ensure a truly magnificent gown, the government allowed the Princess an additional 200 clothing coupons (at this time a woman’s long-sleeved woollen dress required 11 coupons).

The dress has a simple princess-line cut, which reflected the fashion of the day, with a fitted bodice, long sleeves and a heart-shaped neckline, low V-pointed waist and floor-length panelled skirt. The dress is made from duchesse satin, ordered from the Scottish firm of Winterthur. The silk for the appliqués was produced at Lullingstone Castle, Kent, at the request of Queen Elizabeth, and woven by Warner & Sons.

Thousands of tiny pearl and crystal beads were applied to the gown by highly skilled hands, forming a design of white roses of York (as worn by the House of York during the Wars of the Roses), orange blossom (a symbol of purity and fertility), ears of wheat (a cereal grain first grown in Britain around 5,000 years ago, symbolising plenty), star flowers and jasmine. It took dozens of women, each sworn to utmost secrecy, to realise Hartnell’s design, over a period of two months.

Two samples of the embroidery were specially made for Queen Mary and sent with a letter of presentation by Hartnell, see RCINs 120495-6. The ensemble was completed by a silk tulle veil, and ivory duchesse satin high-heeled sandals (RCIN 100022), trimmed with silver and seed-pearl buckles, made by Edward Rayne (1922–92) to Hartnell’s design and using the same fabric as the wedding dress.

Hartnell also designed and made the dresses for the eight bridesmaids. Following the wedding, the dress was subsequently exhibited at St James’s Palace in London and then went on tour across the United Kingdom.